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New Wines From the Holy Land
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Who better to ask about great wines for Passover than people who buy wine for a living? At the Israwinexpo 2008 in Tel Aviv, I tasted kosher wine with a diverse group of buyers for American-based retailers, including HEB Kosher Store, Best Cellars, A&P Liquor, BevMax and Skyview.

Israel is emerging as a high-quality wine producer. The volcanic terrain of the Golan Heights lends a spiciness to its wines. The Judean Hills near Jerusalem bring a distinct herbaceous quality, as if thousands of years of bay, sage and desert plants seeped into the vines. The Upper Galilee — a rugged, rocky region along the Lebanese border — is considered the best wine-producing area.

The following list features some new Israeli standouts available in the United States. These reds and whites represent every price point. And fear not: Virtually every wine produced in Israel is kosher, and kosher for Passover.

Wine list

Wonderful Whites

Dalton Estate Fumé Blanc 2007
Sun-ripened flavors of orange and nectarine, crisp acidity. An aperitif that goes well with grilled fish and sushi. $12

Yarden Muscat 2005
A sweet dessert wine with luscious notes of candied peaches, juicy tangerines, honey and a hint of vanilla. Serve this with Passover honey nut cake. $16

Galil Mountain Viognier 2006
Reflects Israel’s potential for southern Rhone-style wines. Aromatic, fresh and floral, with just a hint of oak. It holds its own against spicy Asian food as well as chicken and fish. $17

Segal Galilee Heights Chardonnay 2004
A reserve Burgundy-style white offering a pleasant grapefruit and floral bouquet. Perfect with poached salmon or stuffed chicken breast. $17

Domain Du Castel “C” Blanc Du Castel 2006
Castel has a reputation as the finest winery in Israel. This 100% chardonnay is full of rich, buttery notes with a long finish. Best with fish, chicken and other fowl. $50

Recommended Reds

Barkan Classic Pinotage 2005
Few Israeli winemakers grow this grape, a smoky little number with raspberry and cherry flavors. Good with heavy pasta, duck and cream-based sauces. $10

Carmel Appellation Series Old Vines Carignan 2005
Carignan was once the workhorse of Israeli vineyards, but it’s been replaced by Cab. What a shame. This Carignan is dense with concentrated raspberry and blackberry flavors; the old vines give it backbone, depth and a smooth tannic structure. A meat lover’s wine. $20

Binyamina Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Full-bodied and complex, with a long, well-balanced finish. Enjoy this with glazed salmon, lamb or roasted duck. A great value at $20.

Teperberg Meritage 2005
A silky blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this full-bodied red has an herbal hint showing its Judean Hills roots. Serve with heartier fare, like roast duck or beef stew. $20

Galil Mountain Yiron 2004
A defining wine that’s worth the search. A New World blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a bit of Syrah, showing the Upper Galilee’s potential. Note the chalky limestone nose among the dark berry, cherry and exotic spices. Good aging potential. Serve with roast beef or lamb. $22

Garrett Peck is a freelance writer for the alcoholic beverage industry. He’s the author of the forthcoming book “The Prohibition Hangover.”

Wed. Apr 02, 2008